Types of kitchen ventilation: do it yourself

Owners of private homes and apartments often ask me whether kitchen ventilation is necessary, what type they need, and how to set up the system. Kitchen ventilation is essential for removing stale air and bringing in clean air.

In the kitchen, you can install a supply, exhaust, and supply-and-exhaust engineering system, where air flows move naturally or forcedly.

How to properly ventilate is a question that requires in-depth consideration of the steps involved. In the kitchen, you can install hood, supply wall or window valve, breather, recuperator. Selection and installation of equipment is carried out in accordance with SNiP standards.

Kitchen ventilation standards

A lack of oxygen indoors can negatively impact a person's well-being. Rapid fatigue, drowsiness, and impaired concentration are observed. Carbon dioxide levels exceeding the oxygen level by 6-7 times cause suffocation.

Additionally, the air in the kitchen is polluted by the smells of cooking food and combustion products from the gas stove. According to the requirements GOST 30494-2011, for a person to remain in the room normally, the level of carbon dioxide should be 400-600 ppm.

SNiP 41-01-2003And SP 60.13330.2010 These are regulatory documents that govern the volumes of regular air exchange in residential premises. The standard for removing stale air from a kitchen:

  • with electric stove – 60 m3/hour;
  • with a gas stove - 90 m3/hour.

The minimum air exchange rate is 12. To help you understand the standards, I'll give a more detailed explanation using the example of a kitchen with a gas stove. In one hour, the air in the room should be exchanged 12 times at a rate of 90 m3.3 in each cycle.

Using the standard indicator as a basis, you can calculate the required performance of the kitchen ventilation system in a private house or apartment.

According to regulatory documents, the number of gas stove burners must correspond to the kitchen volume:

Two burners – for a room of 8 m3;
Three burners – for a kitchen with a volume of 12 m3;
Four burners – for a room with a volume of 15 m3 or more.

In addition to auxiliary ventilation elements, building codes require the kitchen to have a separate natural exhaust duct.

Photo: Free natural ventilation channel

The free exhaust duct of the common building system is located on the wall under the ceiling, separate from the connected ventilation units. If there are legal grounds for connecting a domestic range hood to the vent, install it through a combination grille.

The unit contains a duct connection and a free grille section. If the range hood fails, dirty air continues to be exhausted naturally through the common ductwork and the grille.

A household hood connected to a combination grille

Types of ventilation

Based on their operating principle, ventilation can be classified as supply, exhaust, or combined. A complete ventilation process is possible when air is supplied through the supply and exhausted through the exhaust hood. This system is called a supply and exhaust system, or a combined system.

Natural ventilation is the most common option for small private homes and apartments. Air exchange occurs due to the difference in temperature and pressure between the outside and inside the building.

Pros and cons:

  • easy to install and inexpensive system;
  • no power consumption;
  • inexpensive maintenance;
  • Quiet operation due to the absence of fans.

  • air exchange standards do not comply with SNiP, therefore, the engineering system has not been used in modern construction since 2004;
  • the intensity of air exchange depends on natural factors;
  • Due to limitations in the length of air ducts, it is not always possible to arrange natural ventilation for the entire house.

Mechanical ventilation works by forcibly moving air flows using operating fans.

Advantages and disadvantages of the system:

  • stable air exchange does not depend on natural factors and complies with SNiP requirements;
  • the user can regulate the intensity of air exchange;
  • The presence of additional equipment allows you to purify the air entering the kitchen, change the humidity and temperature, and automatically control the modes.

  • energy consumption of equipment;
  • operating fans create noise;
  • The system is more expensive for the user to install and maintain.

In a mixed system, the fan is located on the exhaust or supply duct. This option is common for small kitchens in older homes.

Photo - Mixed ventilation with natural inflow and forced exhaust

Methods of ventilation arrangement

You can create a supply and exhaust ventilation system for your kitchen by installing at least two units. One unit will supply air, and the other will exhaust air.

More expensive, but more effective is combined equipment, in the body of which the manufacturer provides for the passage of two flows with recirculation.

What is suitable for the influx?

A simple way to create an air supply in the kitchen is to install a diffuser on a wall vent. The unit looks like a standard ventilation grille, but its design is different.

Depending on the model, the diffuser is equipped with a static pressure chamber, partitions, an impeller, and blades for better distribution of incoming air flows.

Photo of a plastic diffuser
Plastic diffuser

Instead of a diffuser, you can install an anemostat. The unit is equipped with a mechanism for adjusting and completely shutting off the air flow. The supply anemostat has a plate with an inward curve.

Photo of a supply air diffuser
Supply anemostat

An inexpensive way to improve airflow is to install a window vent in the kitchen. A window vent is equipped with a manual or automatic mechanism to regulate air flow.

Depending on the installation type, ventilators are produced in two types: for fixing to the upper part of the opening sash and for mounting to a fixed window by milling the frame.

Photo Window valve

To ensure filtered air enters the kitchen, install a wall-mounted supply air valve. The unit is equipped with a manual air flow control mechanism.

When closed, the valve prevents air from passing through, which is convenient for conserving heat when the kitchen is not being cooked in winter. More expensive models are equipped with a thermostat and a heater to warm the incoming air.

Photo of a wall-mounted inlet valve
Wall-mounted inlet valve
A breezer is considered more effective than a wall valve. Using a three-stage filtration system, it removes allergens, dust, and odors from the incoming air. It also features a heating function. The breezer is installed through a through-hole in the wall.

What is suitable for the hood?

If your home has a ventilation duct, install an anemostat to regulate the air flow. An exhaust unit differs from a supply unit by its outward-curved plate shape.
A window fan is a good budget-friendly option. Its drawback is significant heat loss in winter. The unit is noisy when in operation.

Range hoods are a common kitchen ventilation solution. Designed for installation above the cooktop, these units vary in design and exhaust method.

Classification by air removal method:

1
Range hoods with exhaust ducts are connected to the ventilation system. The hoods are equipped with a grease-catching mesh filter.
2
Household kitchen ventilation hoods without a stale air exhaust system are not designed to be connected to air ducts. The unit operates using a recirculation method. Stale air passes through a grease trap and a carbon filter. After filtration, the air is returned to the kitchen.
3
Combination hoods are connected via ductwork. Hoods can operate with air extraction or recirculation through a filter.
  1. Depending on the shape, hoods are produced as dome-shaped, canopy-shaped, and telescopic.
  2. By installation location – built-in, wall-mounted, suspended, island.
  3. Umbrellas can be angular or rectangular.
  4. By type of placement above the hob – vertical, inclined, horizontal.

What is suitable for a supply and exhaust system?

A simple way to set up supply and exhaust ventilation is to install a combination air diffuser in the kitchen. This device operates both for supply and exhaust. A supply and exhaust air diffuser has two disc valves, one facing outward and the other inward.


Photo - Universal supply and exhaust anemostat
Universal supply and exhaust anemostat

An effective supply and exhaust ventilation system is to install a heat recovery unit. This unit handles both supply and exhaust air flows. It is equipped with a fan, filter, and control sensors.

Recirculating air flows reduces heat loss in the home. You can install a recuperator individually for the kitchen on the wall, floor, or ceiling. A more powerful model can be installed for the entire house in a separate room or in the attic.

Photo of a recuperator for a ducted supply and exhaust ventilation system in the attic

What type of ventilation should I choose for a kitchen with a gas or electric stove?

In a kitchen with a gas stove, I recommend installing a forced-air supply and exhaust system with a vent into the ventilation system.

The room is heavily contaminated with greasy fumes from cooking food and natural gas combustion products. Leaks are possible from an extinguished burner or a leaky faucet.

Electric stoves are less hazardous than gas appliances. You can install a forced-air hood with recirculation above the cooktop without exhausting it into the ventilation system. The carbon filter will need to be replaced less frequently than with a gas stove.

How to ventilate your kitchen properly

Ventilation works properly when there is both an intake and exhaust. It's impossible to organize air exchange with just one air supply or exhaust.

Even a kitchen hood operating on the recirculation principle without ventilation is ineffective due to the lack of fresh air intake. The only proper system is a supply and exhaust system. There are several options for how to create one:

  1. Intake ventilation. In a house or apartment with old wooden windows, air from outside enters through cracks. Heat loss increases, but the property owner saves money by installing an intake ventilation unit.

Another beneficial option is to create a gap at the bottom of the kitchen door to allow air to flow in from other rooms with an air vent.

If you have new windows with sealed glass units and it's impossible to direct airflow from other rooms, you'll need to install a supply air device. Options include installing a supply air valve or breezer through the wall, or installing a ventilator on the window frame.

Photo: A free way to arrange air flow and inflow between rooms

  1. Exhaust hood. Apartments and modern private homes are typically designed with a common-building exhaust duct. Additionally, a range hood can be installed above the stovetop to remove stale air from the kitchen.

In older private homes, there is no common exhaust duct. To remove stale air, an exhaust fan must be installed through a hole in the wall or on a window vent. An exhaust hood with an outlet to the outside can also be installed.

Above the channel passing through the wall or on the side of the wall, be sure to leave a free through hole for natural ventilation.

Photo Window exhaust fan
Window exhaust fan

To set up supply and exhaust ventilation in a modern kitchen, consider installing a recuperator. The disadvantage of the device is its high cost and difficulty of installation..

The advantages of the ventilation system outweigh the disadvantages. The kitchen space will be supplied with clean air. The multifunctional recuperator will heat the incoming air in winter and cool it in summer. A comfortable microclimate is maintained in the kitchen 24/7.

Photo of a supply and exhaust heat recovery unit mounted under the ceiling
Supply and exhaust recuperatorcompactly installed under the ceiling

Installing a recuperator for the kitchen

Installation of supply and exhaust units follows the same principle. To install the equipment, drill a through hole in the wall or window frame and secure the unit housing with a duct leading outside. There's no need to discuss the step-by-step installation of a breezer, valve, or window vent.

The installation of an exhaust hood varies depending on its design, but everything is described in the manufacturer's instructions. In short, you need to secure the unit's body and plug it into a power outlet.

The ducted exhaust must be routed through the wall to the street using air ducts or connected to the general building ventilation system.

The installation of a recuperator is more complicated, so we will consider this issue in detail using the example of a wall-mounted plate device. Meltem M-WRG-S/ZTF German production:

  1. The wall-mounted heat exchanger is supplied with a mounting template. Place the element against the wall where the housing is to be mounted.
Photo: Applying markings to a wall using a template
Applying markings to the wall using a templateUsing the template, mark two holes for the exhaust and supply ducts.
  1. Prepare the wall area for drilling. Secure a piece of film with masking tape. Cut a window at the drilling site to allow access to the markings.
Photo: Preparing a wall section for drilling holes
Preparing a section of the wall for drilling holesTape the edge around the window perimeter to the wall to prevent drilling debris from falling under the film.
  1. Attach the diamond core drill to the wall. Align the cutting bit with the markings.
Photo: Diamond drilling of a concrete wall
Diamond drilling
  1. Begin drilling along the markings. When diamond drilling concrete, water should be supplied from the drill rig to the drilling point to cool the cutting bit. Be prepared for some water to leak through the cut concrete onto the outside of the wall, creating dirty streaks.
Photo: Water leaks down a wall during diamond drilling
Water streaks down the wall
  1. After drilling each hole, remove the concrete fragment cut from the wall from the drill bit.

Photo of concrete cut with a diamond core bit

  1. There should be two holes on the wall, located vertically opposite each other.

Photo: Two holes for the recuperator air ducts

  1. Place the template over the cut holes from the room side. Align it with a level. Mark small holes on the wall to secure the heat exchanger housing with hardware and plastic anchors.
Photo: Markings using a template for mounting the recuperator housing from the room side
Marking the template for mounting the recuperator
  1. Drill the mounting holes with a hammer drill. Use diamond-tipped or carbide-tipped drill bits. Insert a plastic anchor into each hole.

Photo: Drilling mounting holes on the wall

  1. Temporarily secure the template with screws. Check the alignment of all holes and the correct level. Insert the bushings into the drilled holes for the air ducts. In this model of heat exchanger, the air ducts are made of plastic pipe. Part of the bushing should extend beyond the wall plane on the street side.

Photo: Inserting bushings into air duct openings on the wall

  1. Place the canopy template against the street-facing wall with the two protruding sleeves. Align the element using a level. Use a pencil to mark the mounting holes on the wall for the screws and dowels.

Photo of mounting template attached to wall from street side

  1. Remove the template from the wall. Drill mounting holes according to the markings and insert plastic anchors.

Photo: Drilling mounting holes for the canopy from the street side

  1. Align the visor mounting plate with the holes and securely fasten it with screws.

Photo of the canopy mounting strip being fixed from the street to the wall

  1. Install the canopy onto the mounting plate secured to the exterior wall. The top of the piece is covered with protective transport film. After the canopy is secured, remove the film covering from the body.

Photo of the canopy being fixed to the mounting plate

  1. From the room side, use foam to fill the gaps formed between the outer walls of the air duct sleeves and the concrete surface of the wall.

Photo: Sealing gaps with foam

  1. Remove the installation template. Trim the protruding edge of the sleeves to match the wall plane.

Photo: Trimming the protruding sleeve to the wall plane level

  1. Use a chaser or a hammer drill to make grooves in the wall for laying the wire to supply electricity to the recuperator.

Photo: Chasing a wall for wiring

  1. Secure the recuperator unit to the wall with screws. Make sure the supply and exhaust ducts of the unit fit into the sleeves.

Photo of mounting the recuperator unit on the wall

  1. Connect the wiring to the heat recovery unit. Connect the wire using terminal blocks. Check the power supply and the operation of the heat recovery unit. Lay the wire in the grooves, conceal it with plaster, or use cable ducts for wiring.

Photo: Connecting the wiring to the recuperator

  1. Install the decorative cover on the recuperator unit, covering the working components of the ventilation equipment. Check the operation of the unit and the mode switching again.
Photo: Installing a decorative cover on the recuperator unit
Installing the cover on the recuperator

A wall-mounted heat recovery unit is a convenient option for creating a combined supply and exhaust ventilation system in the kitchen. If you're planning to install a complete system for the entire house, you'll need equipment with increased capacity.

Powerful recuperators are available in floor-standing and ceiling-mounted versions. The principle of air ducting through the wall is similar to the wall-mounted model. The duct connection method differs.

Air ducts made of aluminum corrugated pipes, plastic, or metal tubing are connected to the wall sleeves from the recuperator's supply and exhaust ducts. A muffler is installed after the unit to absorb fan noise.

Photo: Connecting a recuperator unit with a muffler using metal air ducts

Installation video

Meltem M-WRG RS 485 recuperator. Wall-mounted recuperator in the house.


Answers to frequently asked questions

Is natural ventilation necessary in the kitchen if there is a range hood?

If a range hood is installed, natural ventilation is needed for emergency removal of gas leaks and dirty air when the appliance breaks down, is turned off, or is unable to operate due to insufficient power.

How does a range hood work without a vent in the kitchen?

A range hood without a vent works on the principle of air recirculation. The contaminated air passes through a filter and, after cleaning, returns to the kitchen.

Is it possible to connect a range hood to a kitchen ventilation duct without violating SNiP (Building Codes and Regulations)?

SNiP 41-01-2003 and SP 60.13330.2010 do not apply to household exhaust hoods, but apply to the period of building construction until commissioning. The rules and regulations for the operation of housing stock are reflected in Resolution No. 170 of September 27, 2003, as amended on June 22, 2022. Clause 5.7.8 states that it is prohibited to seal or cover the ventilation duct with foreign objects. In upper-floor apartments, an exhaust fan may be installed instead of a grille. In new buildings, connecting the exhaust duct to a combined grille is permitted. It is best to verify the legality of your actions with the organization servicing the apartment building.

Is it possible to do without a hood in the kitchen?

Without a range hood, soot from cooking food will settle on the kitchen ceiling, but it's possible to do without one. The owner will have to clean the room more often. If by range hood you mean an exhaust vent through a wall or on a common duct, then it's essential. Exhaust ventilation in the kitchen is essential.

Which range hood is better for a kitchen: a charcoal one or one with a ventilation outlet?

For a gas stove, a ducted hood with a vent is best. A unit with a carbon filter works well over an electric stove to purify dirty air. A carbon hood is the best option when connecting ducted equipment to the building's central ventilation system is not permitted in the apartment.